Enamel jewelry is a very old technique that involves decorating a metal form with powdered glass and heating it until the glass melts and fuses together and to the metal. Since the melting point of the metal is higher than that of the glass frit, the metal shape does not deform while the glass is melting and forming a smooth coat of color on it. It is necessary to take the degree to which each material expands when heated into account when enameling jewelry, which is why special glass frit is used for this purpose. If you are thinking about learning how to enamel jewelry, you will need to do some research and get the advice of someone who works with glass or enamel before you begin buying your equipment and working materials.
Enamel jewelry has been popular since the ancient Celts and Ancient Egyptians. Most of the rediscovered buried hoards have some enamel jewelry in it. The beautiful colors that result from this technique makes enamel jewelry more brilliant than that made from semi-precious stones, and until the invention of faceting stones, enamel even surpassed most fine gemstones.
Today enamel jewelry is much easier to make and can be made in larger quantities that fine gem or semi-precious jewelry. There are a number of techniques used by manufacturers and workshops to make jewelry. The most common form, used extensively in China, is cloisonne. Thin metal walls are soldered to the metal base, forming both metallic patterns and dividing colors from one another. The glass is applied in a liquid or paste form, and the piece heated in a kiln to melt the glass. The melting glass fills the spaces between the metal dams and the resulting form can be ground smooth and polished.
A more difficult technique is pique de jure. This technique requires working on a metal form, but the metal dividers and glass are placed on a metal form but not attached to it. After the piece is fired, the metal form is removed, and the resulting glass and metal piece is like miniature stained glass. As would be expected, this form of enamel is fairly fragile.
There are other methods of working with metal and glass frit that are explained in Wikipedia and other sources. TV shows on how things are made also have demonstrations on the manufactured enamel lapel pin. If there is a glass or enamel crafter or workshop in your area, you may be able to watch the process or even take a class in enameling. This will give you a feel for what to look for when collecting enamel jewelry.
Antique enamel jewelry, as opposed to ancient enamel jewelry, is more readily available to the average collector today. Since the process has been in use for the last five hundred years in Europe, at least, there should be plenty of possibilities for the true antique collector. Vintage enamel jewelry is readily available at flea markets and second hand shops as each generation disposes of the jewelry of the previous generation. Current, new enamel jewelry is available at jewelry counters everywhere, as well as in catalogs and on shopping channels on TV. Christmas is a favorite time to buy enamel jewelry as much of the seasonal jewelry uses enamel to provide bright colors on the gold or silver form.
Watch for older or better enamel pieces to add to your collection at estate sales and auctions. This form of jewelry is frequently overlooked as an art form, and beautiful pieces can be acquired on your expert opinion after very little study on your part.
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